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A PILGRIM’S PROGRESS

The Garhwal region of north India is speckled with some of the holiest
of Hindu pilgrimage sites and Rishikesh is one such major attractions.
Crowded with sadhus with long matted hair and pilgrims from all over the
globe, Rishikesh is the birthplace of yoga. It attracts thousands of
tourists every year, who come to seek mental peace in the midst of the
humdrum of modern life. The various ghats and temples assist the human
spirit in its endeavor to be one with the ultimate source of all
creations. It is also an attraction for the ones in search of adventure
and passion.
LOCATION
Rishikesh is located in
the northern part of Uttar Pradesh. It is 238 km northeast of Delhi and
24 km north of Haridwar and spreads on the right banks of the Ganges, at
its confluence with the Chandrabhaga stream. It is surrounded by hills
on three sides and is perched at an altitude of 356 meters above sea
level. The name Rishikesh is loosely applied to an association of five
distinct sections encompassing not only the town but also hamlets and
settlements on both sides of the river. These include Rishikesh itself,
the commercial and communication hub; the sprawling suburban
Muni-ki-Reti or the “sands of the sages”; Shivananda Nagar, north of
Rishikesh; the temple section of Lakshmanjhula, a little further north;
and the assorted ashrams around Swarg Ashram on the east bank. In
Rishikesh, the winters last from November to March, when temperatures
fall below 0°C. The monsoons are generally experienced in the months of
July and August.
THE PAST
Legend has it that the
sage Raibhya Rishi did severe penance and, as a reward, God appeared to
him in the form of Hrishikesh. Rishikesh also represents the site where
Lord Vishnu vanquished the demon Madhu. The place is known as the Tapo
Bhumi or the place for meditation of the Gods. Tapovan, on the other
bank of the Ganges, houses a temple to Lakshmana. It is believed that
Lakshmana, the younger brother of Lord Rama, carried out penances here.
The Neelkanth Mahadev temple is believed to be the site where Lord Shiva
had drunk the venom that came out during the churning of the ocean. In
the 1960s, the place came into limelight as the place where the pop
group Beatles met their guru, Maharishi Mahesh Yogi.
SITES TO VISIT
Rishikesh abounds in
temples. Most of the pilgrims who pass through Rishikesh on their way to
the Himalayan shrines of the Char Dham pause for a holy dip and puja at
Triveni Ghat, in the central part of the town. The river here looks
especially spectacular during aarti (evening worship) when diyas or oil
lamps float on the water. Nearby is the Bharat Mandir, Rishikesh's
oldest temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu.
The Chandreshwar temple
stands at the confluence of the Chandrabhaga and the Ganges. The Hanuman
Mandir is flocked by a large number of devotees on Tuesday.
The dense-knit complex
of cafés, shops and ashrams collectively known as Swarg Ashram, opposite
Shivananda Nagar, is the most attractive part of Rishikesh, backing on
to forested hills where caves are still inhabited by sadhus or hermits.
The large courtyard of the Parmarth Ashram here is crammed with brightly
clad statues of gods and goddesses. Around 2 km north of Swarg Ashram, a
path skirts the east bank of the river en route to Lakshman Jhula. The
Lakshman Jhula is a 450-feet-long suspension bridge and was built in
1939. The Lakshman Temple on the west bank has been built to commemorate
the journey of Lakshmana across the river on a jute rope. Many of the
temples and ashrams around both ends of the bridge—such as the
extraordinary Kailashananda Ashram, with each of its thirteen stories
dedicated to a different deity—are always filled with devotees. It is a
pleasant 2-km walk from this place to the Shivananda Jhula. Ganga Museum
has one of the richest collections of Mughal and Rajput paintings of the
18th and 19th centuries. The tomb of Fateh Jang, built in honor of one
of Shahjahan’s ministers, combines Islamic and Hindu architectural
features. The Jaisamand Lake is a large artificial lake constructed by
Maharaja Jai Singh in 1910 and makes an excellent picnic spot. The Vijay
Mandir Palace is the royal residence of Maharaja Jai Singh, uninhabited
except for old retainers. This palace serves as a window to the
lifestyle of the princes.
SITES NEARBY
The Vilas Vinay Palace,
about 10 km from the main township, is a garden palace and was once the
residence of Maharaja Vinay Singh. Its gardens are watered by the
Silisehr Lake. There is a hunting lodge on the hillside overlooking the
lake and it has been now turned into a hotel.
Fifteen kilometers on
the Rishikesh–Chamba road is located the historical town of Narendra
Nagar. A town of archaeological importance, it was built by the King of
Tehri, Narendra Singh. The royal palace here is worth seeing as is the
magnificent statue of Lord Shiva’s attendant, the Nandi bull.
Rajaji National Park at
Chilla is 16 km from Rishikesh. The park (820 sq km) has wildlife in
abundance and is especially known for its wild elephants. The Sariska
sanctuary is 37 km from Rishikesh. It was established in 1955 and is
located in the valley of the Aravallis.
The Nilkanth Mahadev,
east of Rishikesh, is one of the holiest shrines here. The beautiful
forest track rises through the forests behind Swarg Ashram, passes
Mahesh Yogi's ashram, and eventually descends to Nilkantha, which is at
an altitude of 1700 meters. Its small bazaar and dharamshala become
especially animated during mid-July, when pilgrims flock to the temple.
The small white Shakti
temple of Kunjapuri is 10 km higher at the sharp point of an almost
perfectly conical hill with breathtaking views of the Himalayas to the
north.
MEDITATION AND YOGA CENTERS
Rishikesh is called the
yoga capital of the world and there are many ashrams in Rishikesh
offering courses on meditation, yoga and Hindu philosophy. The hatha
yoga and pranayama meditation classes at Sri Ved Niketan Ashram are well
known. The Shivananda Ashram (Ph: 430040) is located opposite the
Shivananda Jhula and is flocked by tourists. It is also possible to stay
in the ashram by intimating the authorities a month earlier. Other
ashrams include the Yoga Niketan Ashram (Ph: 430227), Omkarananda Ashram
(Ph: 430883), Vanmali Gita Yogashram (Ph: 431316), Dayananda Vedanta
Ashram, Brahma Niwas and the Yoga Study Center (Ph: 431196). The
International Yoga Festival is organized every year from February 2 to 7
by UP Tourism.
WHERE TO SHOP
Being a pilgrimage
place, the glamour of big shop bargains is absent, but Rishikesh offers
handicraft items made of shells, beads and pearls. The rudraksha mala or
the Hindu rosary is a special attraction here. Saris, kurtas, sheets and
rugs can be purchased from here. One can buy these items from the
government-approved UP handloom shop, Khadi Bhandar. The main shopping
centers in the city are Dehradun Road, Haridwar Road, Ghat Road and
Railway Road. The city center also has some state emporia. A good range
of Ayurvedic medicines made from Himalayan herbs are available at
Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ayurvedic Center.
WHERE TO STAY
Rishikesh offers a wide
range of accommodation facilities. At the City Center, Chandrabhaga,
Rishilok, Swarg Ashram, and Lakshman Jhula area, one can find many
hotels. The Swiss Cottage and the Norwegian Cottage offer good and cheap
accommodation.
HOW TO REACH
The nearest airport is
Dehradun, 35 km from Haridwar. A Vayudoot service operates from Delhi to
Dehradun. A few private airlines also operate flights from Delhi to
Dehradun. Rishikesh is connected by rail via Haridwar (24 km) to Howrah,
Bombay, Delhi, Lucknow, Varanasi, Dehradun and other cities. There is a
daily Shatabdi Express and a Mussourie Express from Old Delhi Railway
Station to Haridwar. From there, one can take either a passenger train
(1½ hour) or a bus (½ hour) to get to Rishikesh. Rishikesh is connected
by bus via Haridwar with Agra, Chandigarh, Dehradun, Kullu, Manali, and
Shimla. It is also linked to Mussourie (77 km), Badrinath (301 km),
Kedarnath (228 km), Gangotri (258 km), Yamunotri (288 km), Srinagar (105
km), and Joshimath (252 km). There are two bus stands, the Main Bus
Stand (Ph: 430066) and the Yatra Bus Stand (Ph: 432013).
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