Chennakeshava Temple

FACTS & FIGURES

SCULPTURAL SIGNATURE OF THE HOYSALAS

Belur city of Karnataka is famous for its Chennakeshava Temple, which was built by the Hoysala rulers, who ruled over this region between the 10th and 13th centuries. Apart from being able rulers the Hoysala kings were great patrons of architecture. They developed a unique style of temple architecture during their reign, of which the Chennakeshava Temple in Belur is the finest example. Like all Hoysala temples the Chennakeshava Temple, too is famous for its sculptures and ornate friezes.

HOYSALA STYLE OF ARCHITECTURE

Temple architecture in India is broadly divided into the northern (Nagara style of temple architecture) and southern (Dravidian style of temple architecture) styles. Temple architecture has been classified by the form and shape of the shikhara (a prominent roof, which surmounts the top of the sanctum sanctorum), and the distinctiveness of its decoration. The shikhara of the temples in south India (shikhara in south Indian temples is generally known as Vimana/ Vimanam) tend to be made up of distinct horizontal levels that diminish to form a rough pyramid. Each level is decorated with miniature temple rooftops. In contrast to this, the shikhara of the temples in north and central India resembles an upturned cone that is decorated with miniature conical shikharas. Further, most of the Temples in south India have tall gopurams (tall and elaborate gateways). Sometimes the gopurams are so tall that they often dwarf the main shikhara over the sanctum sanctorum.

The style of temple architecture, which developed under the patronage of Hoysala rulers, differed from the traditional south Indian temple architecture in a number of ways. Compared to the traditional temple architecture seen in south India, the temples built by the Hoysalas were squat structures, which were constructed on a star shaped platform (a feature hitherto never seen in temples of India). The elaborately carved surfaces of these temples, more than made up for their lack in height and reflect the high quality of sculptural craftsmanship achieved by the Hoysala architects and sculptors.

CHENNAKESHAVA TEMPLE

The Hoysalas were great warriors who had established a great empire between the Malaprabha and Kaveri rivers in Karnataka. In 1116 Vishnuvardhana, the great Hoysala ruler built the Chennakeshava Temple on the banks of River Yagachi, to commemorate his victory over the Chola rulers at Talakad.

The main entrance to the shrine is guarded by twin statues of a youth slaying a tiger (the royal symbol of the Hoysala dynasty). The main edifice is built over a 1.5 m (4.92 ft) high stellar platform. Like all Hoysala temples, the Chennakeshava Temple is squat and compact but its dimensions are striking. Every inch of available wall surface, from the base to the projected eaves of this temple is covered with exquisitely sculptured imagery. However, Hoysala sculpture reaches its apogee in the depiction of celestial maidens, carved with a marvelous plasticity of modeling and infused with the most accomplished grace and elegance. These madannikais or celestial beauties depict the various occupations of their lazy lifestyle - nursing pets, dancing, admiring their own beauty in the mirror, warding off a playful monkey, frightened by a scorpion etc. Even the droplets of water trailing down the body of a beautiful maiden has been captured and frozen for posterity by the Hoysala sculptor. These small figures under the eaves stand out in their fantastic jewelry and elaborate coiffures.

Pillars in the Navranga Hall (which forms an important part of the temple structure) are, ingeniously carved, and marvelously smooth. An interesting aspect of this hall is that no two pillars are alike, and each one of them is a masterpiece in its own right. It has been built on the basis of the diamond-shaped plan (triratha) with entrances on the east, north, and south. At the center of the hall is a polished stone platform on which the queen used to dance, in praise of Lord Chennakeshava. It is said that the beauty of the Hoysala queen Shantaladevi inspired the Hoysala craftsmen to make the scintillating sculptures within this temple. The ceiling of this temple comprises of concentric rings ornamented with figures. The temple, which is located with the precincts of a paved compound, also has a tank, which was used for ritual bathing.

Outside, on the Vimana, the Hoysala sculptors have done the most marvellous work, depicting unending rows of nearly 650 elephants, horses, lions, birds, and warriors both mythical and real. Most of the friezes decorating the various walls of this temple generally depict scenes from Hindu epics like Ramayan, Mahabharat and the Bhagvat Purana; apart from figures of Gods and goddesses, amorous maidens, animals and mythological figures.

The most striking feature of the temples in Belur, like all other Hoysala shrines, is that they are raised on a high star-shaped jagati (platform) on which the main edifice has been built. The gorgeous sculptured panels on the outer walls of this temple are positioned at such a height that you don’t have to crane your neck to observe their magnificent detail. The Chennakeshava Temple is open for all but non-Hindus, who are not allowed inside the sanctum sanctorum.

MONUMENTS NEARBY

The huge walled court of the Chennakeshava Temple houses four smaller temples within its precincts: the Channigaraya temple, the Soumyanayaki temple, the Andal temple and the Veeranarayana temple, all of which are decorated with rich carvings and sculptures.

HOW TO REACH

Belur does not have an airport. The nearest airport is located at Mangalore (154 km from Belur), which is well connected to other major cities of India.

The nearest railhead is at Hassan (38 km from Belur), which is connected to Mangalore, Mysore and Bangalore.

The main bus stand in Belur is 1 km from the Chennakeshava Temple. The bus service from Belur to Bangalore (222 km from Belur), Halebid, Hassan, Mangalore, Sravanabelgola and Mysore is good. You can make use of, tourist taxis and auto-rickshaws to move around in Belur.