Meenakshi Temple

FACTS & FIGURES

AWE AND ADORATION

The grandeur of the Meenakshi temple has remained undiminished for the past two thousand years. This sprawling and awe-inspiring temple complex is not only a marvel of architecture but also a veritable treasure trove of Indian culture and civilization. It is also one of the largest temple complexes in India.

SOUTH INDIAN TEMPLE ARCHITECTURE

The basic structure of temples in India is a room or the Garbha Griha (sanctum sanctorum) where the idol of the main deity is kept. The temple is approached by a flight of steps and is often built on a platform. A porch covers the entrance to the temples, which is supported by carved pillars. A prominent roof called the shikhara surmounts the top of the Garbha Griha. Gradually, as time went by, small temples grew into temple complexes.

Temple architecture in India is broadly divided into the northern and southern styles, classified by the form and shape of the shikhara and the distinctiveness of its decoration. The shikhara of the temples in south India tend to be made up of distinct horizontal levels that diminish to form a rough pyramid. Each level is decorated with miniature temple rooftops. Some south Indian temples like the Meenakshi temple also have tall shikharas over the elaborate gateways or gopurams, to add to the overall symmetry of the temple complex. The shikhara of the temples in north and central India, in contrast, resembles an upturned cone that is decorated with miniature conical shikharas.

The shikhara of the Meenakshi temple and its gopurams are not only high as if reaching the skies above, but are decorated with images of gods, goddesses, and mythical figures. The temple also has many long corridors and the elaborate pillars within these corridors too are elaborately carved with mythological figures and scenes.

MEENAKSHI TEMPLE

The Meenakshi temple complex is literally a city—one of the largest of its kind in India and undoubtedly one of the oldest. Various kings have renovated it, adding convoluted corridors here, larger-than-life sculptures there, polishing and honing an abode suitable for Meenakshi, one of the many forms of goddess Parvati (consort of Lord Shiva). Stonewalls and towers of the Meenakshi temple rise out of the teeming streets of Madurai’s city center. From her rambling maze-like palace, the Goddess Meenakshi presides. It is said that her image (all three and a half feet of it that’s tucked into the ancient and dark sanctuary, lit by a steady glow from an oil lamp) is carved out of a single emerald.

GOPURAM

This magnificent temple complex sprawls over an area of 6 hectares. It also has 12 gopurams or gateways, ranging in height from 45 to 50 m, the tallest being the southern one. The southern gateway is beautifully proportioned and is nine stories high. Like the other gopurams, it is also crowded with the images of gods, goddesses, gargoyles, and gryphons. Like the statues of classical Greece, the people who follow the ancient Dravidian culture of South India also paint their gods in brilliant colors. Thus, one can experience a myriad of colors atop these gateways.

KAMBHATTADI MANDAPAM

A corridor, having lions and mythical beasts about to prance and literally jump out of pillars and pilasters, leads one past the sanctum sanctorum of the goddess towards one of the most perfect halls in the temple complex, the Kambhattadi Mandapam, which faces the sanctuary of the Lord. Older portions of this mandapam (hall) were built around the late 15th century.

Natural light stripes the flagstones and floods statues inside. One is spellbound by the exquisite expressions on the face of Meenakshi as she weds Shiva. She looks shy, he suitably serious. They could be any modern-day bride and grooms. Next to them stands Meenakshi’s brother, giving the bride away, a look of great pride and joy on his face. The other statues in the hall are no less important and explore the whole gamut of human emotions.

THOUSAND-PILLARED HALL

Of the same vintage is the thousand-pillared hall, an awe-inspiring edifice, which measures 240 feet by 250 feet. The stone pillars here are not only decorative, some also sing, as one gently taps them. Pillars, decorated, exuberant, bustling with life and emotions are a trademark of Madurai. And where better to see the best of them than at the thousand-pillared hall?

From one of its monolithic stone pillars, the figure of Rati (consort of the god of love) emerges. The slightly elongated face is that of a Pandya beauty, the cheeks elegantly rounded, the chin defined by a marked protuberance under the lip. The nose is damaged, but the lips are well shaped, with a suspicion of a lilt to the corners. The eyes lack pupils, but they are wide open and beautifully shaped. The eyebrows arch from mid-temple to the corner of the eyes. She wears large earrings. Her arms, neck, waist, bosom, and feet are encrusted with delicate jewelry that leads the eye to the folds of her lower garments that fall in pleats and swirls over her thighs, calf muscles, and ankles. She has long hair done in a loose knot that seems to be unraveling itself, slowly. Her back is arched. She sits astride a grimacing swan, her right leg hinged at the knee and placed on the swan’s back, the left, swathed over the elaborately carved bulge of the bird’s belly supported by decorated stirrups.

Apart from these architectural wonders, the temple complex in general and the pillared corridors in particular serve as shopping malls, where devotees can purchase everything from plastics to false hair, toys, vessels, cheap jewelry, imitation rose garlands, bangles, etc. One can also buy jasmine flowers or garlands—the flower for which Madurai is famous.

LEGEND

The legend associated with the Meenakshi temple is an interesting one. It is said that an early Pandyan king and queen aspired for a child. Goddess Parvati, who appeared as a small girl in a ceremonial fire, granted their wish. However, the girl was deformed and had a third breast. Lord Shiva appeared on the scene and proclaimed that the third breast would disappear when she met her husband.

In the course of time, the small girl became the new Pandyan ruler and was known for her military prowess. As soon as she defeated the last of her enemies, Lord Shiva appeared. Thrilled by her victory and the wondrous sight of the deity, her third breast fell away. She and Lord Shiva returned to Madurai, where they were married. From then on, they dedicated themselves for the well being of the people of Madurai. When their son, Murugan, ascended the throne, they went within the temple where they took celestial forms as Goddess Meenakshi and God Sundereshwara.

HOW TO REACH

Madurai has daily flights from Madras (Chennai) and four times a week from Bangalore. It is an important railway junction on the Southern Railway network. It is connected, through Madras (Chennai), to major centers in India. It is also connected to the major towns and cities in Tamil Nadu by bus.